Day 22of 35 aboard a seismic vessel off eastern
Newfoundland. The days drag on. Time stands still. There is no beginning or end. Steak day on Saturday marks the weeks as they pass. It is like waiting in an airport
terminal for endless days for a flight to get you home.
Working as a
Marine Mammal Observer/Seabird Observer my duties involve looking out the
window from the ship’s bridge half of each daylight period (about 8.5 hours on
watch each day). So far fog has not been a real problem though that is changing
as we get into July notorious for fog.
Being one with a high need for visual avian stimuli every day I look at whatever
birds I can see from my bridge window perch.
It is mostly Northern Fulmar, Great Shearwater and Leach’s Storm-Petrel
- the Big Three. These are the most
common summer species at sea off eastern Newfoundland in the deep water beyond
the continental shelf edge and much of the shelf waters as well. As I look at my umpteenth Great Shearwater of
the hour I chant to myself ‘you can never know a common bird too well’ and ‘you
are not birdwatching unless you are looking at a bird’. After a 5-6 week shift at sea I’ve looked at
each of these three species more than any species on land over the entire
year.
Great Shearwater is one my three constant avian friends out here on Orphan Basin, Newfoundland. The adults are in heavy wing moult at this time of year July 2, 2013.
There are perk birds.
Jaegers and especially skuas are star attractions in an ordinary
day. In early summer there are small
groups of subadult Long-tailed Jaegers.
These are camera targets when they come close enough. Sometimes they
hang for a time in the updraft over the ship jostling one another around. So
far they’ve been playing around the wake of the ship but not investigating the
ship. I’ve always said you can’t live on
skuas alone. They make up only a minute or two on any day. And many days you
seen none, however, they are the best ‘normal’ bird out here. They can be photogenic if you are ready when
they come by the boat. So far they’ve not been circling the boat much but just
passing by once. My photo collection of
skuas has not grown much this trip. So
far on this trip I’ve seen 19 South Polar, 9 unidentified skua and no
Greats. Haven’t spent much time in the
good skua areas where their target species, the Great Shearwater is abundant.
Five to six week stints on seismic ships is part of my job
working for an environmental consulting company. Since 2003 I’ve spent over TWO YEARS of my
life on seismic vessels. Most of it off
eastern Newfoundland on the northern Grand Banks and the adjacent Orphan Basin
– an area of several thousand square km.
The ocean east of Newfoundland once a faceless expanse on the map now
has meaning. You learn a lot about where birds occur in relation to the oceanographical
features on the bottom. Knowing where
you are on the map and seeing the birds around, gives you a sense of what it
feels like to be in a particular part of the ocean even though it appears to be
trackless water. It is a rare
opportunity to have all this first-hand experience and knowledge of a huge area
of ocean off eastern Canada and become extensively familiarity with the
seabirds of the NW Atlantic. Is it all
worth the two years at sea? NO!
Every 5-6 week stint at sea is a gap taken out of your life
that you don’t get back. You could be
just as well off knowledge-wise with 20% of this amount of time at sea. Now I
am talking about trips off eastern Newfoundland. Seismic trips to places outside of the all
too familiar Newfoundland are a different story.
For example two six weeks stints off NE Greenland at 78N to
80N in the pack ice in late summer was pure bliss from start to finish. I hated
to go to bed for fear of missing too much.
Ivory Gull was daily, up to a hundred in day. Felt like we were in the birthplace of Ivory
Gull as a species. Watching Ivory Gulls in their domain was an enlightening
experience even after plenty of Newfoundland Ivory Gull experience. Then there
was the two weeks and 25 different white Gyrfalcons in Sept 2011. That was off
the scale by all measures of birding experience. The NE Greenland seismic trips
were priceless learning experiences.
One is never enough and there are never too many. Ivory Gull is one of the most attractive species in the world. There are almost too many to fit on this one little ice pan off NE Greenland on Sept. 11, 2011.
The first of my two tropical seismic trips was four weeks in
the Pacific Ocean off Costa Rica. A
whole host of new and exciting seabirds from the common Wedge-tailed
Shearwater, to the rare Christmas Shearwater, to the exotic White Tern and the
mythical Swallow-tailed Gull. Every day
was a good day on that trip. It ended too fast.
I was not expecting Swallow-tailed Gulls off Costa Rica. Their long wings and slow floating wing beats like a frigatebird was not what I imagined for this amazing gull. Most of the seven individuals seen were following the boat at night. This one on March 26, 2008
One more trip exotic location was the South China Sea south
of Taiwan. Seabirds were in lowish
numbers but included some serious species for a Newfoundland birder like
Streaked Shearwater (fairly common), Bulwer Petrel, Red-tailed Tropicbird and
several Aleutian Terns. It was the spring land bird migration that kept that
trip hopping. We were surveying under a
major migratory path of birds wintering in the Phillipines and probably as far
south as Australia. At night I tried to
identify some of the masses of shorebirds attracted down low by the ships
lights on foggy nights. Great Knots,
Marsh Sandpipers, Curlew Sandpipers were among the most numerous species
identified. Landbirds in daylight
included some Siberian specialties like Eye Browed Thrush, Red-breasted (Taiga)
Flycatcher Brown Shrikes and the ultimate bird for a ship mate – male Siberian
Rubythroat.
A picture is worth a thousand words. Siberian Rubythroat on seismic vessel in South China Sea south of Taiwan, April 16, 2009.
Ok, break is over. Time for another two hour watch on the
bridge and more of The Big Three.
Dream On….